Magnamole Magnetic Cable Guide Kit (MM-800)

Ships direct from the manufacturer. Please allow up to 10 business days, though it often ships sooner.

Getting a cable through a wall cavity is mostly the problem of finding the far hole from the inside, blind, past the wiring and pipes that are already in there. The Jonard Tools MM-800 Magnamole turns that into a magnet problem: push the 17 in magnetic rod in through the hole on one side, screw a magnetic cap onto the end of the cable on the other, and the two find each other through the void and snap together, so the cable follows the rod out the far hole. It threads at an angle and steers safely past other wires and cables, which is what makes it work in a wall that already has a few circuits in it, and because the cable is pushed to a magnet rather than hooked by a fish tape, there's far less chance of snagging something live. Two 14 in magnetic extensions screw onto the rod for a deeper void, five caps cover the cable sizes, and Jonard puts the time saved at 44 percent, Six Sigma certified. It takes no experience, and the whole kit weighs a quarter of a pound.

What's in the Kit

• Magnetic rod, 17 in. Goes in through the drilled hole to meet the cable.
• Two magnetic extensions, 14 in each. Extend the rod's reach for a wider cavity or a longer void.
• Five magnetic caps. Screw onto the end of the cable or wire so the rod can pick it up.

How It Works

• Drill the hole and clear out the dust and debris.
• Insert the rod through the hole where the wire needs to go.
• Cap the cable. Screw the appropriate magnetic cap onto the cable or wire end and align the magnets.
• Push the cable into the hole and through to the other side of the wall.

Features

• Threads cavity walls and void spaces. Quickly guides wire and cable through to the far side.
• Threads at an angle. Steers safely through other wire and cable obstacles in the wall.
• Reduces shock risk. The cable follows a magnet rather than a steel tape fished blind through existing wiring.
• 44 percent time savings. Six Sigma certified, per the manufacturer.
• No experience required. Four steps from drilled hole to pulled cable.

Where It Fits

It suits low-voltage technicians adding a Cat6 drop or a coax outlet in a finished wall, electricians fishing a new circuit through an existing cavity without opening the drywall, AV and home theater installers running speaker and HDMI cable behind a wall that already carries power, security and smart-home integrators placing sensors, cameras, and keypads where there's no straight shot from the attic, remodelers and handymen who'd rather not cut an access hole to find the other end, anyone who has spent twenty minutes jiggling a fish tape past a wire nest in a stud bay, and a bag that already has the FTS-50 fish tape for the straight runs and the strippers for the termination. For long conduit runs the FTS-240 steel tape is the tool, and for fishing where a conductor might be live, the FTF-1125 fiberglass tape; the MM-800 is for the short, blind pass through a wall.

Good to Know

Drill with care and clear the hole before the rod goes in; a magnet picks up the drilling swarf as happily as the cap, and a clean hole is what lets the rod and the cap find each other. Choose the cap by the cable's diameter and screw it on square, since a cap that's loose or crooked comes off in the wall, and keep the cable end straight behind it so the magnet has a clean pull. Add the extensions only when the rod won't reach; a longer rod is a floppier one, and a straight void is easier to cross than a long one. Work the rod slowly through a wall with other cables in it, let the magnets couple before you push, and push the cable, not the rod, once they have; a pull that won't come has snagged on something and wants backing up, not force. The rod and caps are magnets, so keep them away from magnetic media, credit cards, and anything with a sensitive compass or sensor, and don't leave them where they'll pick up steel filings. Cut the power to any circuit in the wall before you start regardless; the tool lowers the shock risk, it doesn't remove it. The extensions and caps are small, so keep the kit together in its own pouch.

Specifications