Round Cable Strip & Ring Tool, 4.5 - 29 mm OD (CST-1140)

Ships direct from the manufacturer. Please allow up to 10 business days, though it often ships sooner.

Stripping a round cable end, opening it at mid-span, and ringing the jacket for removal are three different cuts, and the Jonard Tools CST-1140 makes all three with one blade on round cable from 3/16 to 1-1/8 in (4.5 to 29 mm) in diameter. A gray knob rotates the blade and locks it in one of three positions: longitudinal for a straight slit when end stripping, spiral for working along the cable at an end or at mid-span, and circular for the ring cut that frees a jacket section. A black knob sets the blade depth precisely, on jackets from 0.1 to 3.0 mm thick, so the cut goes through the sheath and stops. A spring-loaded cable holder grips anything in the range, and the blade handles PVC, rubber, PE, and most other jacket materials. It's the adjustable tool for a crew that meets every round cable from a drop to a feeder and wants one body that does them all.

Features

• Three cuts, one blade. The blade locks in position for longitudinal cuts (end stripping), spiral cuts (end and mid-span stripping), and circular ring cuts (jacket removal).
• Gray knob selects the cut. Rotates the blade between ring, spiral, and longitudinal.
• Black knob sets the depth. Precise blade depth for jackets from 0.1 to 3.0 mm thick, so the jacket is cut cleanly every time.
• Round cable from 4.5 to 29 mm. A spring-loaded holder grips cable from 3/16 to 1-1/8 in in diameter.
• Most jacket materials. Cuts PVC, rubber, PE, and many more.

Where It Fits

It suits splicing crews and outside plant technicians who open distribution and feeder cable at closures, pedestals, and vaults and want one adjustable tool for the whole range, enterprise and campus installers stripping round indoor/outdoor and riser cable at panels, electricians and industrial technicians stripping thick rubber and PVC jacketed power and control cable, anyone who prefers a selector-knob tool with a locked blade position over a blade that swings on its own, and a van or a bench kit where this replaces a set of sized slitters for everything that isn't armored or flat.

Good to Know

Set the depth before every new cable: measure the jacket at the cut end or on a scrap, set the black knob a touch under it, and test a ring at the end, adding depth until the blade just scores through; the aim is to cut the jacket and nothing underneath, and the 3 mm maximum means this tool stops at the thickest jackets rather than armor. For an end strip, set the gray knob to longitudinal, clamp the cable in the holder, and draw the tool off the end; for a mid-span entry, ring at both ends of the opening on the circular setting, then switch to spiral or longitudinal and work between the rings. The spiral cut is the one for a long peel on a heavy jacket, since it comes off in a strip that doesn't bind. Keep the tool square to the cable on a longitudinal cut and let the spring-loaded holder do the gripping rather than squeezing. Peel the jacket in sections and watch what's underneath as it lifts. The tool is for round jacketed cable; armored cable needs the AST-200 CableSaber, flat drop the FDS-312 or FOD-2000, and the smallest cable the CSR-125 or CSR-1575. For a lighter, cheaper tool in roughly the same range with a self-switching blade and no spiral mode, the CST-900 covers 8 to 28 mm. Cut jacket edges are sharp; gloves on the peel.

Specifications

Documentation