100 FT Fiberglass Fish Tape Rodder (FTF-1125)

Ships direct from the manufacturer. Please allow up to 10 business days, though it often ships sooner.

A steel fish tape in a conduit that turns out to have a live conductor in it is a bad afternoon, and a loose coil of fiberglass rod on the floor is a bad hour. The Jonard Tools FTF-1125 solves both: 100 ft of non-conductive nylon-coated fiberglass fish tape on a dispenser and winder built around it. The 1/8 in rod is stiff enough to push through a long conduit run and flexible enough to follow the bends, and the nylon coating protects the fiberglass and slides over whatever is already in the pipe. The case has a built-in reel handle for smooth pay-out and furling, two furling systems, a fastening and anchoring system, and a center compartment for the accessory kit; the backing is transparent so you can see how much tape is left, and it comes off with a metal lock pin for a quick tape repair. The high-impact plastic case is tough enough to stand on, which makes it a hands-free dispenser when the pull needs both hands. Reel, tape, and accessory kit are included, with a lifetime warranty.

What's in the Kit

• Reel. Dispenser and winder with built-in handle, fastening and anchoring system, center compartment, and two furling systems.
• 100 ft fiberglass fish tape. Non-conductive, nylon-coated fiberglass rod, 1/8 in (3.175 mm) diameter.
• Accessory kit. Heads and pulling attachments for the tape, stored in the reel's center compartment.

Features

• Non-conductive fiberglass tape. Nylon-coated fiberglass rod for flexibility and durability, with no metal to carry a fault.
• Ultra-smooth pay-out and furling. The built-in reel handle feeds the tape out and winds it back without a tangle.
• Transparent backing. Shows how much tape is left on the reel.
• Metal lock pin. Removes the backing for a quick, easy tape repair.
• High-impact plastic case. Durable enough to stand on for hands-free use.
• Lifetime warranty.

Where It Fits

It suits electricians and low-voltage technicians pulling wire and cable through conduit, in walls, and under carpet, structured cabling crews fishing Cat6 and fiber through finished walls and long EMT runs, security and AV installers who work around existing circuits and want nothing conductive on the end of the pull, data center and telecom techs threading a pull string through a crowded conduit, anyone who has fought a bare fiberglass rod that wanted to spring back into a coil, and a truck that carries the CC-5442 cable caddy to pay out the cable and the CPF-215 Cable Funnel to protect it at the ceiling grid. The pulling grips, lubricant, and bulk cable it's used with are in the cable and tool collections.

Good to Know

Non-conductive means the tape itself won't carry current, not that the conduit is safe; treat any conduit that could hold a live conductor as live, confirm the circuit is dead before you fish it, and keep the rule that a fish tape never goes into an energized panel. Feed the tape with the reel handle rather than pulling loops off by hand, and furl it back the same way, since a fiberglass rod kinked over a sharp edge or bent past its radius cracks under the coating; a tape that has whitened or splintered at a spot is weakened there and should be cut back and re-tipped, which is what the lock pin and backing removal are for. Push, don't ram, when it stops in a conduit, and back it out and try again rather than forcing through a blockage. Attach the pull cord or cable to the tape's head with a swivel or a smooth taper so it doesn't hang up on the couplings, and pull the tape out the same way you fed it in. Standing on the case to free your hands is what it's built for; stand on the case, not the reel handle. Keep the accessory heads in the center compartment so the right one is there when the tape needs it. Steel fish tapes are the better pusher for a very long, clean conduit; fiberglass is the one to use wherever a conductor might be, and the only one for fishing near energized equipment.

Specifications

Documentation